Welcome to our web site. We hope we can teach you a thing or two about brooding and succsyfully raise your brood of chicks.
1. Shelter: Setting up a baby chick house also known as a brooder. Baby chicks need to be protected from drafts but still have adequate ventilation. The brooder can be a box, a storage bin, or even a kiddy pool. The box should have with holes for ventilation, a single-faced corrugated cardboard roll. The brooder should be up to 12" high or bigger.
2. Heating: A 250 watt infrared light bulb is good enough for every 50 chicks. The temperature should be up to 90-95 for the first week after that reduce by 5 degrees each week. until room temperature.
3. Water: For the first few days add 4 tbs. per gallon of water. 1 tbs. per quart of water. Clean and refill water daily to keep clean. If you have day old birds dip there beak into the water this helps the bird to know how to drink. For baby bantams use rock and cover the bowl with them to help them not to drown.
4. Litter: I always feel the floor with feed for the first 3 days of life. This makes it easier for the chicks to find food. Never use news paper, because it can cause Spraddle Leg. Some times I use paper towel. Another option is the brooder floor should be covered in a small holed hardware cloth. The cloth helps the new chick develop its walk, and also helps prevent splayed leg and curled toes.
5. Feed: A chick starter feed will be good enough. You can buy poultry feed ( chick starter ) at you local feed store.
6. Clean Up: Whenever the chicks have to be moved for cleaning there should be another brooder completely set up at the correct temperature and lighting for the transfer. If you do not clean up the brooder regularly it may cause ammonia.
IF your birds are not starting good or any other information, things to wary about click here.
The above diractions remains the same exept for the following. Temperature set at 90 degrees. Lighting for 10-12 hours; Adjust feed and water for growth.
The above directions remain the same except for the following: Temperature set at 80-85; Lighting for 8-10 hours; Adjust feed and water for growth.
The above directions remain the same except for the following: Temperature set at 70-80; Adjust feed and water for growth. It is now the time to prepare the coop area for the chicks arrival. If there are already hens and/or roosters in the main coop area, a smaller area should be prepared separate from the main coop area for the chicks protection. The baby chick coop area should be close enough to any other chickens as to allow viewing, but separated to provide protection for the small chicks from the adults and from any predators. The chick coop should also provide protection from heavy winds and rain, and it must have a heat and light source if temperatures are not above 65 daily.
By now the chicks should be feathering out nicely. Wing feathers should be complete, and tail and neck feathers should be close to complete. During this week the chicks should be allowed time to adjust to the outside coop. They should be brought out on days when the temp is above 65 and no rain, then brought back in at night. Food and water should be available for the chicks in the coop area at all times. If it is winter time, the chick coop must have a heat and light source to provide a temperature of 70 with 8-10 hours of light.
When there are no adult chickens and temperatures average above 65, the chicks having adjusted to the coop can now remain outdoors. If temperatures average above 65, and there are adult chickens, the chicks can slowly be integrated into the main coop area. The chicks should only be let into the main coop area when someone can be present to watch. If the coop and range area was designed properly, there should be more than enough room for the chicks to avoid any confrontation with an adult chicken. If an attack (not a pecking order confrontation) occurs, immediately remove the chicks from the area and assess the medical condition of the chick. Continue with the integration daily until chicks and adults can coexist for 8 hours without attacks. When the 8 hour mark is reached, it can be assumed that full integration can be accomplished. If there is an adult chicken that continually attacks the chicks, it may be advised to cull the adult, or to make a permanent separate coop area for the chicks. After months of age the chicks, now pullets or cockerels, can be given adult chicken feed.
PICKING: Baby chicks will often pick at each other if they are too hot, too crowded, without fresh air; or short of room. Occasionally, a bright light also causes them to pick. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to picking. Sometimes, however, they pick for no apparent reason. Put some green greass clippings to try to stop it, Try to darken the room
EMERGENCY FEED - Finely chopped boiled eggs. Peaple have been doing this for hunderds of years bilive me it works
GIVE EXTRA ATTENTION: to any chick or chicks not starting to eat. That has been getting pecked at seprat it from the rest of the chicks until it looks healthey enough.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: Always wash your hands well after handling birds, their equipment and poultry manure. Do not kiss or nuzzle any of your birds. Keep birds outside, away from human habitation and food preparation areas. Always supervise young children around birds, making sure they wash their hands well.